I love body surfing.
And, thinking of it, am reminded of my Dad.
He taught me how to feel the wave before it comes, the pull of gathering energy as it forms that tells me "this is the one", where to catch the shoulder, the timing and watching and swimming hard until I feel that drop and surge and know I've got it...
the perfect ride.
Every time I pick that right wave I am taken back to my childhood, to the feeling that wells inside and bursts as I break clear of the salty froth and turn to my dad and see him smiling.
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At the moment you are atop the crest of the wave feeling the power of the ocean behind you, life is as alive as it gets. And to do this repeatedly for an hour or two takes everything from you mind and you can lie exhausted and free on a towel staring up into a sky that goes on forever.
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